Dolce and Gabbana Alta Moda in Naples

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 Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana chose Naples to present their Alta Moda collection, for Winter 2016.

Nothing too fussy for this catwalk was set, red Velvet chairs, uniformed attendants who helped guests to their seats, a marching band parade playing the Traditional Napolitan tune “Funiculi Funicula”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYwafK4HttY and the picturesque Piazza San Gregorio Armeno. A stereotypical square of the Greek and Romans urbanistic architecture which, characterizes all the historic center of Naples. Today, Piazza San Gregorio Armeno is renowned for the beautiful church of San Gregorio Armeno, but mainly for ‘THE ARTE PRESEPIALE’.

 

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Dolce and Gabbana collection of Alta moda was a celebration of life the Neapolitan way, it was staged as it could have been one of the many popular Festa Del Paese’ in Naples. Sophia Loren, Dolce and Gabbana’s longtime Muse and , if I may humbly say one of Caprissima’s muses too, was of course in attendance.

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The designers collection was once again rich of Italian meanings and in particular the Neapolitan ones: From religion to soccer, the models flowed through the cobbled street wearing lavishly embroidered Swarovski and needle- point dresses, as to honour the skilful craftsmanships of Naples; Red Silk and a corseted swimsuit with a white satin sash , the worlds Miss Eleganza sewn in gold beads; A reminder of Sophia Loren’s first step to Fame. Every outfit, had something to reference back to Naples.

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The outstanding piece of this elaborate collection, was of course, the very gilded and chic clergy outfit, it felt almost like  a restyled San Gennaro, patron of Naples.

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Caprissima is not a fashion blog and this post does not want to pretend to be as such, but I was very excited that finally the fashion world shined some fashion lights on Naples, the city of love music and wonderful craftsmanship.

Let me just say ‘THANK YOU’ Dolce and Gabbana!

 

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FASHION WEEK – All you need to know

Wednesday, October 7th 2015,  will see  Paris closing the last of the Fashion weeks for the Spring Summer 2016 Season. Although it is well known in the fashion world the system of how the fashion week works, I know that there are some of you that do not understand the hows and whys of the Fashion weeks.

The Fashion World is categorsised in a way to suggest the price points, aesthetics and the targeted audience There is Haute Couture, Prèt á Porter, Bridge, Contemporary, Moderate, Tweens/Junior and Budget.

In these categories, only two of these categories have seasonal showings, The Haute Couture and the Prèt á Porter.

Haute Couture (French for ‘high tailoring’) is the most expensive, well-made and labour intensive type of clothing manufacture. To be a Couturier, a designer must be invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris.

The couturier has to practice in Paris and employ at least fifteen workers; in addition, hold a fashion show of at least thirty-five pieces in both evening and daywear ,presented twice a year (January and July). Most of these Couturier produce only 1,500 pieces or so a year.

Haute de Couture began in Paris by the end of the nineteenth century, with the English designer Charles Frederick Worth, whom relocated to Paris in 1845.

Portrait_of_Charles_Frederick_Worth_aged_30
Portrait_of_Charles_Frederick_Worth_aged_30

His designs were most in demand amongst the French high society, for his use of lavish fabrics, trimmings and his attention to fit.He was the first couturier that showed his designs on live  models.Prior to this Designers showed their designs only on small dolls. He was the first to design and present seasonal collections

 

Charles Federick Worth
Charles Federick Worth

 

Great Exibition - London Crystal Palace - 1851 - Worth ,Opigez and Chazelle
Great Exibition – London Crystal Palace – 1851 – Worth ,Opigez and Chazelle

Monsieur Worth, not only launched the first fashion show. He, and his son founded ‘the Chambre Syndicale De la Couture Parisienne in 1868, which is the Association of Haute Couture Houses. Only an exclusive circle of Fashion Houses are allowed to make use of this exclusive label ‘Haute de Couture’.

Because of the intensive craftsmanship, exorbitant costs and the exhaustive process, Designers these days, use Couture primarily as a way to acquire attention for their Prèt á Porter collections. Haute de Couture designs are an elite line of attires, and designed in mind for prestigious clients and famous Hollywood stars.

The birth of the Paris Fashion shows represented therefore the change in the manufactory of fashion, from the idea of a single handmade garment to mass- produced, and the Prèt á Porter collections was borne.

Pret a Porter – Ready To Wear, is a category that describes the use of standardised sizes in a design collection, and hold seasonal showing for the fashion press and buyers.

Designer level clothing is marked by superior fabrics, construction, workmanship, conceptual and abstract inspirations that explore artistic and philosophical ideas.

While Paris was establishing the grandeur of Haute de Couture, in Italy, in November 1951 Giovanni Battista Giorgini (an Italian aristocrat from Lucca) started in Florence the first ‘Italian High Fashion show’ ,with only Italian Designers.

Giovanni Battista Girogini
Giovanni Battista Girogini

Thanks to the contacts that he had established with the Americans during the second World War, and to his successful international exhibition of Italian craftsmanship at the Museum of Modern Art, in Chigago (1947), Giorgini decided to   present in Florence ,at the Palazzo Pitti, a Fashion Show for Spring /Summer 1951 f to international buyers and the presses.

Giovanni Battista Giorgini with models. - Vogue.it
Giovanni Battista Giorgini with models. – Vogue.it

Firenze was for many years the center of Italian Fashion shows.It later became then the headquarter of Pitti Uomo, the most important Fashion show dedicated to this days to menswear.

Meanwhile In 1967,. the now prestigious event of Florence fashion moved to Rome. Roma Alta Moda was born.

This gave Italian designers to compete with the French Haute De Couture .

It was during the Seventies that the Prèt á Porter in Italy had a real exploit with Milan bing the major Italian Fashion city.

This was also due to the fact that many textile industries and designers were establishing their businesses in the Lombardia region. Which made Milan the second most important fashion city after Paris.

Over the years the Prèt á Porter’ fashion shows have became an important social and marketing event . An A list of VIPS, bloggers and fashion editors are crowding the front seats of the Prèt á Porter shows.

The most prominent Fashion cities in the world are sequentially, New York, London, Milan and Paris. They are often identified with 4 distinct styles.

Illustration By Megan Hess
Illustration By Megan Hess

 

New York with sportswear and casual, London with edgy avant -garde designs, Milan for its stylish looks, craftsmanship and quality and Paris for its Haute couture. In these four cities every year the fashion weeks are held.

Two for the ready to wear ( pret a porter)women collections (February and September); and two for the ready two wear menswear collections (January and June ).Every fashion week show- cases the collections that will be sold in the year ahead.

In September 2015 for example, Designers have presented their women’s fashion collection for Spring /Summer 2016 and in February 2014 They have presented their Autumn/Winter collections for the year 2015 .These collections will be in the shops 6 months after they have been showed.

However, the fashion world it is fast expanding and requires a frequent change of fashion collections and the listing of new designs in a short time. For this reason, in recent years, the Designers present, a little earlier then the  official fashion weeks, a small capsule collection that anticipates the official ready to wear collections. To be more precise, we talk about Le Cruise collections or Resort collections for the Spring Season of the next year and the Pre-Fall collections for the Autumn  Season of the next year .

This pre- collections are publicised world wide by photoshoots in the Fashion press, and only in rare cases via Fashion shows. This year, Gucci, for the first time presented their Cruise collection for Spring 2016 with an event in New York.

Gucci Resort 2016 New York
Gucci Resort 2016 New York